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RE: Let's talk shoes - Carlos100 - 03-14-2015 01:53 PM

(03-12-2015 08:57 PM)MrXY Wrote:  Anybody else wear bucks in the Spring?



Maybe that's more of a Southern thing, don't know. I usually wear white bucks, but Bass has a blue and white model with red stitching this year that looks snazzy and I might go with that.

I've been trying not to take over this thread. I think bucks are an excellent upgrade from sneakers. I think everyone over 30 should wear bucks in most situations rather than sneakers, even if you're wearing shorts. I'm currently replacing my sneakers with bucks in the colors of: khaki, grey, brown, and black (for night or cloudy days).


RE: Let's talk shoes - realologist - 03-16-2015 08:15 AM

(03-14-2015 01:53 PM)Carlos100 Wrote:  
(03-12-2015 08:57 PM)MrXY Wrote:  Anybody else wear bucks in the Spring?



Maybe that's more of a Southern thing, don't know. I usually wear white bucks, but Bass has a blue and white model with red stitching this year that looks snazzy and I might go with that.

I've been trying not to take over this thread. I think bucks are an excellent upgrade from sneakers. I think everyone over 30 should wear bucks in most situations rather than sneakers, even if you're wearing shorts. I'm currently replacing my sneakers with bucks in the colors of: khaki, grey, brown, and black (for night or cloudy days).

[Image: search?q=alfani+bison+wing+tips&tbm=...600%3B1200]

I'm all for bucks when the warmer weather hits. I got these last year on clearance at Macy's for around $20. What I like about bucks is that they have enough balance of casual and dress up to wear with shorts or a linen suit.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vienna - 04-24-2015 03:33 PM

Need some dress shoe advice.

Occasion: University exam (ceremony during the day + banquet/party in the evening).

I'm wearing a dark navy suit, white shirt, burgundy tie and floral patterned pocket square so far.

From what I gather, black shoes are the norm at formal events. I don't like the contrast between dark navy and black, to my eyes they clash. I'd prefer medium to dark brown (perhaps oxblood) shoes, but that would be "breaking the rules".

Is this an opportunity to "know the rules in order to break them"? I'm tempted to go rebel and wear brown.

This is a memorable night and I want to look dapper!

Budget: ~200 $. Please link shoes that come to mind, be they either black or brown.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Easy_C - 04-24-2015 04:31 PM

That's a lot more flexible than you think. I've actually seen brown work, but I don't recommend starting out with brown shoes. It's harder to pull off.

You want lace up, formal dress shoes with a leather sole and a round toe(NEVER wear square toes if you can help it). Something along the lines of either of these will work but I'd suggest getting ones without any garish toe patterns.

[Image: Shoe-Detail-Boogie-Down2.jpg]


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vienna - 04-25-2015 07:19 AM

Thanks for the tips Easy_C. I'll keep them in mind.

Could you post a couple of pictures where, in your opinion, brown shoes work well with a navy suit?


RE: Let's talk shoes - MrXY - 04-25-2015 12:27 PM

I don't know where the rule of black shoes with a navy blue suit came from, but it is a stupid rule.

The only time I would feel compelled to wear black shoes with a blue suit would be to a job interview, just in case the interviewer was a stick in the mud type who would judge me on such a thing. But then I wouldn't want a boss like that anyway.

Brown shoes look great with navy blue. I feel medium brown is a more conservative choice, but I prefer walnut which is a lighter brown and looks really stylish. Burgundy and oxblood also look very good.


RE: Let's talk shoes - kmhour - 04-25-2015 01:25 PM

black shoes with gray and navy are old English style rules. Google "no brown in town" - it's an old saying from conservative London business culture that makes a good example for formal wear but is obviously a bit behind the times.

more recently, brown shoes have become stylish with navy and even gray pants. it's difficult to pull off brown shoes with charcoal pants, but medium to light gray can be contrasted nicely with the right brown shoe.

honestly, the trend has gone so far toward brown shoes that I've started to wonder if there will be a swing of the pendulum back toward black shoes.

you were looking for examples - here's a gray-blue suit that kind of proves the point on both colors. you'll find a million examples just Googling "navy suit with brown shoes". for a young guy, I would absolutely go with brown shoes, nobody is expecting you to adhere to old style rules (nor should you).

[Image: 4837c2833777e13a2e5c3808a959b085.jpg]

and here is a navy suit with brown shoes (linked for image size) as well.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vienna - 04-26-2015 02:32 AM

Cheers guys.

Found a pair I'm digging.

I like that these shoes fall between medium brown and oxblood and have a simple design. All leather.


RE: Let's talk shoes - kmhour - 04-26-2015 10:33 AM

I'm personally not as much a fan of the redder sheen of oxblood, and I think it's a little harder to pull off with navy than a more neutral brown. Still definitely possible though as you can see in the pic below.

I do think Loake makes nice shoes, and it's a classic cap toe oxford that you could wear with a suit or jeans. I'd go for a more neutral brown that is more versatile if you don't have a bunch of shoes already, but go with what makes you happy. The shoe itself is a great choice.

[Image: 2012-01-31%2B09.25.02.jpg]


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vaun - 04-26-2015 10:53 AM

Bought my first new dress shoes since 2009. The Cole Haans I have had since then are the best dress shoes I have ever purchased, but the leather is now very stretched and they are showing their age. They are rubber soled, and quit making them. Rubber soles to me are far superior to leather soles. Leather soles are totally inflexible and harmful to your feet, and a technology left over from the middle ages. Why wear them? I found Tod's, which are Italian made, rubber soled, and I expect them to last for years. Check out this pair;

[Image: 011077420509_01_01_645Wx645H.jpg]


RE: Let's talk shoes - kmhour - 04-26-2015 01:03 PM

I'm not sure I'd call loafers "dress shoes" and I'm personally not a fan of them with a suit. I think they have a very 1980s Wall Street kind of vibe. With a casual summer suit, or slacks and a blazer, something like that, sure, but at that point I think they're more preppy casual than "dress". But obviously, wear what makes you happy and fits your own style.

as far as soles, leather is going to be what you want for formal shoes. they're more of a hassle, require more maintenance, and aren't as versatile (I prefer not to wear in the rain if I can avoid it) but stylistically rubber is more casual. I do really like Dainite style rubber soles though - if done right they look similar to a leather sole (not like a lug sole) while being much more versatile, weather resistant, and long-lasting.

Vaun, how were your shoes stretched out? are they creased heavily on the vamp (over the top of the foot behind the toes)? are you using shoe trees and treating the leather occasionally to keep it conditioned?


RE: Let's talk shoes - Brodiaga - 04-26-2015 01:38 PM

Are there any good web sites where you can buy dress shoes online? Amazon is not bad (free shipping and free returns with Prime).

I can't be bothered going to a fucking mall looking for shoes. Spent a couple of hours yesterday and didn't find anything decent.


RE: Let's talk shoes - KsockZ - 04-26-2015 02:32 PM

check out http://www.shoebuy.com

they are basically the cheapest I've found anywhere, they always offer 20, 25, and 30% off so never pay full price. they have free shipping both ways and no tax. why I like them is that ebates.com works with them and I can get anywhere from 6-15% cash back by going to their site through ebates.

ps some of the brands at shoebuy won't honor their sales, for instance, the redwings are often not on sale. that being said both pairs of RWs I have, I got from SB with 25% off.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Laner - 04-26-2015 03:35 PM

(04-26-2015 10:33 AM)kmhour Wrote:  I'm personally not as much a fan of the redder sheen of oxblood, and I think it's a little harder to pull off with navy than a more neutral brown. Still definitely possible though as you can see in the pic below.

I do think Loake makes nice shoes, and it's a classic cap toe oxford that you could wear with a suit or jeans. I'd go for a more neutral brown that is more versatile if you don't have a bunch of shoes already, but go with what makes you happy. The shoe itself is a great choice.

[Image: 2012-01-31%2B09.25.02.jpg]

How old are those shoes? I have been looking for something similar for a while now. I like my shoes tight in the width though, and those look a little loose for my style. Dope shoe nonetheless.


RE: Let's talk shoes - XII - 04-26-2015 04:05 PM

(04-26-2015 01:38 PM)Brodiaga Wrote:  Are there any good web sites where you can buy dress shoes online? Amazon is not bad (free shipping and free returns with Prime).

I can't be bothered going to a fucking mall looking for shoes. Spent a couple of hours yesterday and didn't find anything decent.

Yoox.com. High end, fancy Euro shit at a good discount. Frequent sales, great customer service. Extremely wonky sizing/fit though.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Brodiaga - 04-26-2015 04:05 PM

Guys, what so you think about these shoes?

Calvin Klein Men's Brodie Oxford, about $100 on Amazon.

[Image: 81VWIwd0TJL._UX575_.jpg]


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vaun - 04-26-2015 06:19 PM

(04-26-2015 01:03 PM)kmhour Wrote:  Vaun, how were your shoes stretched out? are they creased heavily on the vamp (over the top of the foot behind the toes)? are you using shoe trees and treating the leather occasionally to keep it conditioned?

I do on some, but the Cole Haans I didnt use shoe trees, but get them shined every 5 or so wears, with conditioning. The leather is not creased, but looks stretched out, sort of bulbous, like any leather product that is heavily worn, it stretches out and loses its taught form from when its new. The toes have some cuts, and I suppose that can be fixed. They stopped making these Cole Haans back in 2010, but I literally bought 4 pair when I found them then, and have been rotating them since then. I was really into foot health back then(I wore Vibrams..), and thought these rubber soles were a god send because my feet could flex and werent jammed into ancient shoes.

re: leather soles vs. rubber. Sure, the leather is the classic look, but when I see Tod's or even my Cole Haan's, you really cant tell the difference. I suppose if you were on a trading floor everyday, you would be conscious of that. I am not, so I dont have to keep up with the Jones', I go for comfort because I walk a lot, everyday.


RE: Let's talk shoes - MrXY - 04-26-2015 06:52 PM

(04-26-2015 04:05 PM)Brodiaga Wrote:  Guys, what so you think about these shoes?

Calvin Klein Men's Brodie Oxford, about $100 on Amazon.

[Image: 81VWIwd0TJL._UX575_.jpg]

I vote a big no on those. To be honest, they look really cheap in construction. I can tell from the pic the leather is poor quality and I will guess the soles are glued. Probably Chinese made.

I do like the style though, I have a few pairs of plain toed derbies myself.

You can get decent casual shoes for $100, but not good dress shoes at that price unless they are preowned.

It's better to own a few excellent shoes that a bunch of mediocre. To me, shoes are like tools, tires and guns; worth spending the money to buy high quality.

In terms of Game, believe me women look at your shoes. They don't really know about men's shoes but they know quality when they see it. A woman's view of you goes way up when she is impressed with your shoes.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Carlos100 - 04-26-2015 07:30 PM

(04-26-2015 01:38 PM)Brodiaga Wrote:  Are there any good web sites where you can buy dress shoes online? Amazon is not bad (free shipping and free returns with Prime).

I can't be bothered going to a fucking mall looking for shoes. Spent a couple of hours yesterday and didn't find anything decent.

If you're in the US Nordstrom is a good site for shoe shopping because deliveries and returns are free. I think their 1901 line of semi-dress shoes are among the best quality for under $100 anywhere that I've seen. Check their big July and December sales to get higher-end dress shoes from Allan Edmonds and others for up to 30-40 % off.


RE: Let's talk shoes - kmhour - 04-26-2015 07:51 PM

(04-26-2015 03:35 PM)Laner Wrote:  How old are those shoes? I have been looking for something similar for a while now. I like my shoes tight in the width though, and those look a little loose for my style. Dope shoe nonetheless.

According to the guy's website, he made them himself (!!!) so I'm guessing they're pretty custom shoes. Could do some research but if you like that style, it's called a "wholecut" because there are no visible seams (a single piece of leather is stretched over the last, or form) which makes it a tough shoe to make. It seems like he sells some shoes in the ~ £300 range (I'm not seeing the wholecut shoe though) so not cheap but not unreasonable for a quality shoe. You could always look for burgundy or oxblood wholecuts from other manufacturers, but you probably won't find a bargain.

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2012/03/what-i-am-wearing_08.html

(04-26-2015 04:05 PM)Brodiaga Wrote:  Guys, what so you think about these shoes?

Calvin Klein Men's Brodie Oxford, about $100 on Amazon.

Style is extremely individualistic and you should buy what you like, but.... for me personally, I really don't like that shoe. A derby (open-lace) shoe with that kind of narrow plain toe just doesn't look right to me. And as MrXY said, a $100 Calvin Klein shoe is going to be made of crap leather. Don't get me wrong - I usually keep a pair of crappy shoes for office wear, especially in the winter when I don't want to damage nice shoes with salt - but something like that screams "23 year old 9-5 office job".

Again, just my opinion, go with what works for you/makes you happy.

(04-26-2015 06:19 PM)Vaun Wrote:  I do on some, but the Cole Haans I didnt use shoe trees, but get them shined every 5 or so wears, with conditioning. The leather is not creased, but looks stretched out, sort of bulbous, like any leather product that is heavily worn, it stretches out and loses its taught form from when its new. The toes have some cuts, and I suppose that can be fixed. They stopped making these Cole Haans back in 2010, but I literally bought 4 pair when I found them then, and have been rotating them since then. I was really into foot health back then(I wore Vibrams..), and thought these rubber soles were a god send because my feet could flex and werent jammed into ancient shoes.

I don't really know what you mean by stretched out... I've had some cheap shoes and expensive, none have ever stretched from wear. Are you rotating the shoes also? It's pointless with a cheap pair of beaters, but nice shoes should not be worn on consecutive days. For a decent quality shoe, worn in a rotation and preserved with shoe trees and occasional conditioning/polishing, you really shouldn't ever see stretching of the leather. With good quality, you should be able to re-sole the shoe several times before the upper is ever 'worn out'.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Brodiaga - 04-26-2015 08:13 PM

To be honest, I've never owned expensive shoes, nothing more expensive than $120.

The problem with dress shoes is that the sole wears off too fast. I live in NY and walk a lot, so that doesn't help either. Usually, after a few months the heals wear off and it shows.

Is it different with expensive shoes? I just don't see why it would be different. Am I missing something?


RE: Let's talk shoes - kmhour - 04-26-2015 08:45 PM

with more expensive shoes, sometimes you're paying for a brand name (particularly if it's a fashion brand), sometimes you're paying for quality. a quality Goodyear welted shoe can have the sole cleanly removed and replaced, which extends the life of the shoe. the sole is going to be a disposable item and isn't going to last dramatically longer than a cheap shoe, although a hard Dainite sole will last somewhat longer.

If you're wearing the heels off, with a decent shoe you should be able to find a cobbler that can put on just a new heel. If you live in NYC, finding a decent cobbler isn't all that difficult. Check out this video below to see how Allen Edmonds resoles shoes - the quality English and Italian shoemakers are basically the same process. It's brief, but at ~1:17 you can see how the separate heel piece is glued on to the sole and pressed with pressure to adhere. Replacing this should be much less expensive than a full resole - maybe $50? You can also have a cobbler add heel taps that can help to extend the life of the sole if you predominantly wear the heels in one area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM


RE: Let's talk shoes - MrXY - 04-26-2015 08:59 PM

No, any leather sole will wear out with a lot of walking on streets. Thats why you should take new shoes to a cobbler and have them put on rubber heel caps and a sole protector like Topys. They are relatively cheap and easily replaceable when they wear out.
Also, good quality shoes are resoleable and will last decades if you take care of them. They are cheaper in the long run. Glued soles are not repairable.
Look at the shoe thread on styleforum.net lots of good information.
If you're in NYC you have lots of chances to find good shoes on sale. I think ToBootNewYork offers high quality at a midlevel price.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Laner - 04-26-2015 10:10 PM

(04-26-2015 07:51 PM)kmhour Wrote:  
(04-26-2015 03:35 PM)Laner Wrote:  How old are those shoes? I have been looking for something similar for a while now. I like my shoes tight in the width though, and those look a little loose for my style. Dope shoe nonetheless.

According to the guy's website, he made them himself (!!!) so I'm guessing they're pretty custom shoes. Could do some research but if you like that style, it's called a "wholecut" because there are no visible seams (a single piece of leather is stretched over the last, or form) which makes it a tough shoe to make. It seems like he sells some shoes in the ~ £300 range (I'm not seeing the wholecut shoe though) so not cheap but not unreasonable for a quality shoe. You could always look for burgundy or oxblood wholecuts from other manufacturers, but you probably won't find a bargain.

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2012/03/what-i-am-wearing_08.html

Yeah I have been looking for a good wholecut shoe for a couple years. The closest were these Guccis. Perhaps the best feeling shoe I have ever tried on, I just did not feel the colour at the time. I like the colour of your shoe, which is why I asked. Thanks.

Quote:Posted by MrXY - Today 06:59 PM
No, any leather sole will wear out with a lot of walking on streets. Thats why you should take new shoes to a cobbler and have them put on rubber heel caps and a sole protector like Topys. They are relatively cheap and easily replaceable when they wear out.
Also, good quality shoes are resoleable and will last decades if you take care of them. They are cheaper in the long run. Glued soles are not repairable.
Look at the shoe thread on styleforum.net lots of good information.
If you're in NYC you have lots of chances to find good shoes on sale. I think ToBootNewYork offers high quality at a midlevel price.

Exactly. I have a pair of wingtips that I left the sole without a topy and I replace the leather sole every three years at $160 a pair. The leather sole is a work of art though, and any man interested in fashion should learn to respect the trade from hair to sole.

My TBNY shoes purchased as an experiment in quality turned out to be a winner. $400 a pair and look brand new 5 years later.

I own no rubber soled dress shoes, for the record.

I also take excellent care of my shoes.


RE: Let's talk shoes - Vaun - 04-26-2015 10:24 PM

I bought a pair of To Boots a few years back and they literally fell apart. The binding around the sole became unglued and peeled off after a short number of wears. I took them back to bloomingdales and got a full refund.