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Custom Suits
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MikeCF Offline
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Post: #1
Custom Suits
Nice write-up about an NYC bespoke:

http://www.businessinsider.com/michael-a...011-9?op=1
09-16-2011 04:21 PM
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Aliblahba Offline
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Post: #2
RE: Custom Suits
Made in China.

edit: Hold on. There might be something to this.
(This post was last modified: 09-16-2011 04:59 PM by Aliblahba.)
09-16-2011 04:31 PM
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Laner Offline
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Post: #3
RE: Custom Suits
I know a couple guys in Vancouver who run a company call Indochino. Made to measure suits from Shanghai.

I bought one from them some time back, total price was $500.

The pants are really good, the jacket is good but something looks a little off IMO. People I have asked thought it looked great though. The fabric is actually a pretty good wool, and so far the stitching seems to be of good craft.

This type of service will catch on men start to see the value in looking sharp.
09-17-2011 05:01 PM
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Brian Offline
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Post: #4
RE: Custom Suits
there is a guy in DC who basically takes your measurements and sends them to Hong Kong. custom shirts start at around $50 each and suits around $500
09-17-2011 05:10 PM
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Stitch Offline
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Post: #5
RE: Custom Suits
I've done this; traveling tailor takes your measurements then goes back to his shop in Bangkok and they make the clothes. This is "made-to-measure" and the results are pretty good, given the prices. Having said that it is NOT going to be as good as working directly with a tailor, because there's no fitting. Still, the prices are comparable to what you would pay off the rack, you get to choose your fabric, style, pattern, options, etc. It's not bad, and the clothes look a good sight better than what I'd get off the rack, no question.
09-17-2011 10:33 PM
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mycleverid Offline
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Post: #6
RE: Custom Suits
Hurrah for custom suits! Down with Ed Hardy T-shirts.

(09-17-2011 05:01 PM)Laner Wrote:  This type of service will catch on men start to see the value in looking sharp.

I hope so. Americans have been dressing like hobos since the 60s. We're overdue for a return to real taste.
09-17-2011 11:10 PM
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Vacancier Permanent Offline
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Post: #7
RE: Custom Suits
For the price of 1 custom made in North America, you can go to Bangkok, and and have 5 or 6 custom made suits made for you. Plus you'll have a blast.
09-18-2011 04:49 PM
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Parlay44 Offline
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Post: #8
RE: Custom Suits
Can you guys please post some links or contact info of places that have made customs suits for you?
Only places you've had good experiences with. I'd like to get one made myself. Thank you.

Team Nachos
(This post was last modified: 09-19-2011 02:40 PM by Parlay44.)
09-19-2011 02:39 PM
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kimleebj Offline
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Post: #9
RE: Custom Suits
Note there is a difference between custom and semi-custom. A true custom requires multiple fittings and adjustments. This is time-consuming and costly. A semi-custom suit just involves measurements and a jacket "made to order". But really you can just try on different sizes and styles. Consumer Reports did an old story comparing semi-custom with off-the-rack. The found that a well-selected off-the-rack jacket fit best. That matches my experience. Measurements are fine, but you really need to wear the piece to see the fit. Many stores like Brooks Brothers and Joseph Banks sell separate jackets and pants. You can try different sizes, tall/regular, two or three buttons, until you get a beautiful fit. Then tailor the jacket and (separate) pants and you get a nice fit. In contrast, you can order a semi-custom suit and receive something with a mediocre fit. It is like blue jeans - you really need to try them on.

I have had success with places that sell jackets with a bolt of cloth for the pants. Then I can have the pants made to order. Warning: I have occasionally had some tailor who doesn't speak English. They mark the waist, and then let the pants droops while they mark the cuffs. Naturally the pants come back too short.
09-19-2011 03:24 PM
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satanova77 Offline
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Post: #10
RE: Custom Suits
Heck for the guys living near the Mexican border or who go there for any purpose, is it worth it to seek out a custom tailor there and save some money?

The Lizard Whisperer.......
09-19-2011 04:07 PM
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Vacancier Permanent Offline
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Post: #11
RE: Custom Suits
For BKK, I used one place which was recommended to my by French buddy at the time. I did all my custom shirts and custom suits through them. They're very professional, courteous, fast and do a terrific job. While BKK is filled with Indian tailors, it's not easy to find one that has all the above important traits. The one I have used does have all of these crucial qualities. They're called Prince Tailors on Soi 3 (Soi Nana).
http://www.princetailors.com

Price wise, they're good too. Normal dress shirts are (or rather I paid 500 B + or - 15 bucks), cotton 600B (20 bucks) and silk (1000B or 30$).
Custom suits start at 3000B 0r about 100$. Custom rain coat about 3000B or 100$. Delivery time is very fast, usually 24 hours. They have an extensive selection of colors and fabric to choose from.

Can't go wrong with them. When I return to BKK, I'll head straight there for more custom shirts, dress pants and nice custom made suits to roll to the nice high end places.

(09-19-2011 02:39 PM)Parlay44 Wrote:  Can you guys please post some links or contact info of places that have made customs suits for you?
Only places you've had good experiences with. I'd like to get one made myself. Thank you.
(This post was last modified: 09-19-2011 06:02 PM by Vacancier Permanent.)
09-19-2011 06:00 PM
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Parlay44 Offline
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Post: #12
RE: Custom Suits
Guys I'm shopping around but I'm clueless when it comes to suits.

Pics of suits considered cool and fashionable would help me a lot.

I like the single breasted 2 button suits the best. The 4 button ones with
the small lapels just look weird to me.

I don't want to look like an old man. Ha.

Team Nachos
10-04-2011 10:28 PM
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Stitch Offline
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Post: #13
RE: Custom Suits
I don't mind looking like an old man, as long as it's an elegant old man with class. But then, I'm old and have class. Smile

(not really; 40 isn't old)

And I'm slowly starting to suit up; don't have the funds for true custom yet, but had a made-to-measure shirt/trousers/sportscoat and some single monkstrap shoes that got a lot of compliments (and a tied bowtie for a formal event; surprising how many comments that gets every time I wear it; it's as if no human in the states knows how to do more than a clip-on bowtie. Honestly, people).
10-04-2011 11:00 PM
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Basil Ransom Offline
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Post: #14
RE: Custom Suits
(10-04-2011 10:28 PM)Parlay44 Wrote:  Guys I'm shopping around but I'm clueless when it comes to suits.

Pics of suits considered cool and fashionable would help me a lot.

I like the single breasted 2 button suits the best. The 4 button ones with
the small lapels just look weird to me.

I don't want to look like an old man. Ha.

What's your price range?

Some to check out: J Crew, Brooks Brothers, Boss, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Corneliani, Isaia, Zegna, Kiton, Brioni.

The fit of suit brands and sub-brands varies. Know which parts of a suit can be altered, and which can't. You may find, especially among the higher end suits, a custom like fit after you've found the right brand and done all the right alterations. Even when you go custom, you will not get the same suit from every bespoke maker, there is plenty of variety in style and construction.

And look for high armholes, if you can get them. This one's a beauty:

[Image: high_arm_hole_1.jpg]

That's one of the highest armholes I've seen, and it gives the jacket an incredible V-taper.
(This post was last modified: 10-05-2011 11:40 AM by Basil Ransom.)
10-05-2011 11:26 AM
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WesternCancer Offline
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Post: #15
RE: Custom Suits
(09-17-2011 05:01 PM)Laner Wrote:  I know a couple guys in Vancouver who run a company call Indochino. Made to measure suits from Shanghai.

I bought one from them some time back, total price was $500.

The pants are really good, the jacket is good but something looks a little off IMO. People I have asked thought it looked great though. The fabric is actually a pretty good wool, and so far the stitching seems to be of good craft.

This type of service will catch on men start to see the value in looking sharp.

Can I get the contact info for these guys? I'm looking to get a few suits and start looking SHARP.

I had a prof once who spent the whole lecture bitching out north american culture and how slobbish it is. If you really want to set yourself apart dress smart.

Also to those who wear suits and are knowledgeable what are some staples? Right now I have a pinstripe suit a few ties a tie clip and a pocket square. Also are there certain social situations where certain suits are more acceptable. Where could I wear the pinstripe one I already have?
10-05-2011 08:25 PM
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Prowl Offline
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RE: Custom Suits
(09-17-2011 10:33 PM)Stitch Wrote:  I've done this; traveling tailor takes your measurements then goes back to his shop in Bangkok and they make the clothes. This is "made-to-measure" and the results are pretty good, given the prices. Having said that it is NOT going to be as good as working directly with a tailor, because there's no fitting. Still, the prices are comparable to what you would pay off the rack, you get to choose your fabric, style, pattern, options, etc. It's not bad, and the clothes look a good sight better than what I'd get off the rack, no question.


^^
Yeah, this is the difference between "made to measure" and "bespoke". Bespoke has multiple fittings and involves the creation of a new pattern, MTM just alters an existing pattern.

For good MTM on the cheap, Google "Thick as Thieves". I've also heard decent things about Indochino, for the record.
10-07-2011 08:13 PM
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bez Offline
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Post: #17
RE: Custom Suits
Im not balling by any means so im gonna have to do this on a budget to start with,especially as im about to become a student for the whole of next year.
should i bother with something like this:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing....=413006743

Or should i bite the bullet and layby something a bit more expensive and just pay it off.
My ex works for a high end well known fashion house over here and said she can probably get me something around the $700 mark which would be pretty sharp and should squash any cheap suit thoughts a girl might have.(if she could even tell)
10-09-2011 09:37 PM
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Jack D. Serrano Offline
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RE: Custom Suits
(09-19-2011 02:39 PM)Parlay44 Wrote:  Can you guys please post some links or contact info of places that have made customs suits for you?
Only places you've had good experiences with. I'd like to get one made myself. Thank you.

If you have the budget and the willingness to go to Hong Kong, try Sam's Tailor. I can't post the link (less than 10 posts) but do a quick search on Google for "Sams tailor hong kong" and you'll see it right up at the top.

Nothing quite like having a few excellent custom-made suits to really establish a great image.

Prices vary but can be quite reasonable.
The quality of the suits (and the tailoring) will be unmatched.
Book an appointment ahead of time.

They do excellent work.

It's also good to know what you want from the suit.
Why do you want it?
What do you want to accomplish with it?
What reasons will you wear it?

Getting a custom-made suit for business and getting a custom-made suit to use for dating will be quite a bit different.

Peace,
Jack D. Serrano
10-09-2011 11:26 PM
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Bad Hussar Offline
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RE: Custom Suits
(10-09-2011 11:26 PM)Jack D. Serrano Wrote:  Getting a custom-made suit for business and getting a custom-made suit to use for dating will be quite a bit different.

Peace,
Jack D. Serrano

Can you explain the differences in cut, material etc. between the two for those of us not really in the know? What about workplaces that are more casual, so you don't have to stick with the dark material and conservative cut?

One place I've found re suits on the internets that may be of use to some here: http://www.suitopia.com. I haven't used them yet, so it's not a recomendation, but they seem to be offereing a good product. Swedish based company, I think, but production is likely in China or Bangledesh.
10-10-2011 01:06 PM
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Jack D. Serrano Offline
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Post: #20
RE: Custom Suits
(10-10-2011 01:06 PM)Bad Hussar Wrote:  
(10-09-2011 11:26 PM)Jack D. Serrano Wrote:  Getting a custom-made suit for business and getting a custom-made suit to use for dating will be quite a bit different.

Peace,
Jack D. Serrano

Can you explain the differences in cut, material etc. between the two for those of us not really in the know? What about workplaces that are more casual, so you don't have to stick with the dark material and conservative cut?

I recommend checking out John T. Molloy's, New Dress for Success. There is a ton of good, tested information in there.

When it comes to meeting women, all the testing I've done shows that a good custom 3-piece suit with a red tie consistently outperforms other style combinations, regardless of the particulars of the man wearing it or the venue/setting.

As for what to wear at your workplace, that depends on a lot of variables (region, industry, position, your own looks, your budget, plus many more), but typically* the more conservative the better.

*Check out Molloy's book. He can give you more information on it than I ever could.

Peace,
Jack D. Serrano
10-10-2011 08:41 PM
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Parlay44 Offline
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Post: #21
RE: Custom Suits
http://www.forbes.com/2003/10/22/cx_ns_1022feat_2.html

Suits can be broken down into three basic styles: European (i.e., Italian), British and American. The European suit typically has padded shoulders, no vents, a full-chested and V-shaped jacket and "slash"--i.e., flapless--pockets.

Across the English Channel, the classic British suit sports a military demeanor with padded shoulders, two vents, pinched waist, flap pockets and boldly striped or plaid patterns.

On our side of the pond, the epitome of traditional American styling is the "sack suit" favored by Ivy Leaguers back in the 1920s, with natural shoulders, one vent in the back, straight-hanging lines and flap pockets.

Team Nachos
10-11-2011 10:16 PM
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KingAdam79 Offline
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Post: #22
RE: Custom Suits
(09-19-2011 06:00 PM)Vacancier Permanent Wrote:  For BKK, I used one place which was recommended to my by French buddy at the time. I did all my custom shirts and custom suits through them. They're very professional, courteous, fast and do a terrific job. While BKK is filled with Indian tailors, it's not easy to find one that has all the above important traits. The one I have used does have all of these crucial qualities. They're called Prince Tailors on Soi 3 (Soi Nana).
http://www.princetailors.com

Price wise, they're good too. Normal dress shirts are (or rather I paid 500 B + or - 15 bucks), cotton 600B (20 bucks) and silk (1000B or 30$).
Custom suits start at 3000B 0r about 100$. Custom rain coat about 3000B or 100$. Delivery time is very fast, usually 24 hours. They have an extensive selection of colors and fabric to choose from.

Can't go wrong with them. When I return to BKK, I'll head straight there for more custom shirts, dress pants and nice custom made suits to roll to the nice high end places.

(09-19-2011 02:39 PM)Parlay44 Wrote:  Can you guys please post some links or contact info of places that have made customs suits for you?
Only places you've had good experiences with. I'd like to get one made myself. Thank you.

Nice, Thanks for the information. Are there any other places you know in BKK that do the same thing? I'd love to get a custom suit. I have a really hard time finding cloths that look good on me because of my proportion.

- King
10-12-2011 08:18 AM
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Prowl Offline
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Post: #23
RE: Custom Suits
Google "Thick as Thieves".

They do an excellent made-to-measure product for under $500, fully canvassed. Indochino is OK also I believe, but I like TaT's house cut.


I'd stick with a 2-piece. Bars get hot as fuck sometimes, I don't want to be sweating through my waistcoat. Besides, unless you're gaming steampunk bitches you want to look contemporary. 2-piece, slim cut, barrel cuff shirt, tie bar, lace ups, notch lapels, side vents, no ticket pocket.

Granted, if you WANT a 3pc you can always order one and just leave the vest at home, but I don't think TaT will do a 3pc. They might ship you a few yards of fabric so you can get one done if you're really jonesing.
10-12-2011 03:51 PM
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Gunner Offline
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Post: #24
RE: Custom Suits
If you're in Mexico City try these guys:
http://www.moreragrosso.com
10-12-2011 07:07 PM
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Swagger Offline
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Post: #25
RE: Custom Suits
Other than the brand and the fit, I'm also paying close attention to the material. Is there something as a seasonal suit or something I can wear in the fall, summer and spring? The cotton suits at JCrew look like shit, wool is what I would prefer but I'm not sure how I could pull it off in the summer months. Any thoughts on this?
03-02-2012 12:10 PM
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