2-piece or 3-piece suit?

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JWLZG

 
Banned
Lizard King said:
Why would you care what a woman thinks?

Wear the suit you like best. You're over-thinking this.

There's a word for a man who chooses to let women dictate his sartorial tastes:

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civpro said:
2-piece. 3-piece is really overdoing it in most situations.

I think it's a cultural thing; in the US, it's outright peacocking even in most corporate situations, let alone most bars and clubs. In most of Europe, you can get away with most classic looks that may turn heads in the new world: 3-pieces, double-breasted jackets, French cuffs, patterned shirts with contrast collars — these are all still de rigeuer City of London wear.

For my part, I've worn a 3-piece to job interviews of different levels, and in all occasions I either got the job or didn't for reasons (to the very best of my knowledge) other than the rakishness of my outfit.

I think as long as you're being discreet about it and not trying to show off the fact that you have one, i.e. constantly unbuttoning your jacket to show off your waistcoat — 99% of people won't even notice beyond the thought of "nice suit".

As long it's it tailored appropriately to your proportions — the waistcoat should only peek out beyond your jacket lapel — it's just an extra detail that isn't too flashy.

That also means not exposing a midriff of shirt; it's called a waistcoat for a reason:

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JWLZG

 
Banned
MrXY said:
Can't wear vests here in Florida it's too warm except for a very few days in winter, but I like what's known as the "odd vest" look, meaning a vest that doesn't match the suit. I think they look less formal and conservative and more rakish.

There are a few situations where an odd waistcoat actually elevates its formality, such as morning dress and stroller/black-lounge.

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It's a vestige of the contrasting waistcoats worn during the Regency era a la Mr Darcy:

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Unfortunately, the former is going to be seen as outright costume outside of horse races and weddings (and even then, somewhat so at those events) and likewise, 99.99% of people coming across the latter will see it as a sharp, but mismatched suit. They offer heaps of options in assembly than you might think. :)
 

Carlos100

Kingfisher
Gold Member
Savage said:
Do any of you guys wear suits to clubs outside of the U.S? I can't recall ever noticing any. Is it just an American thing?

You can go suited down to almost any venue in Japan or Korea, even dive bars, and it will give you greater respect and more positive attention from the staff and many, if not most, of the other customers.
 

SlickyBoy

Hummingbird
Depends on the city - while suits after work in DC is totally acceptable for happy hour and there are women who like it, most DC goverment-ish chicks know shit all about their own clothes, much less those of men. These are the women who refuse to wear heels because "they hurt."

In a place like NYC or even Boston, it's a different ball game - there are more women who know and pay attention to clothes. Still depends on the venue though. Above all else and pretty much everywhere, women notice shoes. Like some natural radar they've got. Might be worth focusing on that area first - find out from your girl or whatever, but they notice.

I've never owned a three piece suit but not opposed to the idea. But remember a proper fitting three piece will not fit the same without the vest. What matters more is getting the right cut for your body type - not all brands will work for all guys. Go someplace that knows suits, not the discount rack at Jos A Banks.
 

Lizard King

Pelican
WestIndianArchie said:
Easy_C said:
Why are you wearing a suit for the club? You should very rarely be wearing a suit to a club or bar. The only exceptions are if you're hanging out with guys from work, immediately after work, or if you're in a place that has a suitable dress code.


Instead wear a nice pair of jeans, button shirt, and a sport coat.

If you're in a spot where the dudes are wearing suits, the chicks look better.

If you're only going to spots where guys are wearing jeans and having "going out" shirts - you're working in the wrong crowd.

WIA
^^Yes.

It's dependent on the situation.

What some of you call a vest, in the UK, we call a waistcoat.

If you're wearing a morning suit(funeral? or wedding), you'll have a waistcoat. If you're wearing a normal suit a waistcoat won't be out of place.

Club. 2-piece. 3-piece is too formal.

If you wear a 3-piece suit, it helps if you have all the trimmings: nice cufflinks, tiebar, etc. Some people have a watch on a chain in a waistcoat pocket, very traditional.
 

Carlos100

Kingfisher
Gold Member
I just read the following in Dressing the Man by Alan Flusser and thought it would be appropriate to post here:

Suspenders are the recommended antidote for the gap that typically develops between suit trouser and vest. They raise the trouser' waistband so it remains covered by the vest, while bringing the trousers' pleats and vest's points into better harmony with each other. Vests and belts should choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the stomach adds more bulk to an already layered waistline, and belted trousers also tend to slide down the hip frequently reveaing the undesirable presence of a belt buckle.

Since I'm a big waistcoat and sweater vest wearer, if this is true it looks like I should transition from belts to suspenders.
 

DMario

Woodpecker
While we're talking about waistcoats, I recenty had my tailor make a double-breasted waist coat like this

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At first I was just planning to casually pair it with a white tailored dresshirt, dark raw denim and oxfords. But now Im considering having a suit built around it but in a darker grey.
 

Comte De St. Germain

Crow
Gold Member
Always get the three piece just for the best alone. Wearing a vest with tie in bars and coffee shop or without the tie with the top two button open and necklace showing at clubs/coffee shops always leave a good impression. I've gotten my fair share of looks.
 

zatara

Kingfisher
3-piece suits always seem like someone's trying to hard, in my opinion. Especially if they're under 50.

In most places in my home country though anyone wearing a suit in a club is looked upon as a new money try hard type. The kind of guy who drives a leased BMW but lives in a studio apartment. Think Jersey Shore people I guess, in American culture. If you're in a bar on a Saturday night you're there to relax - suits are what people with good jobs wear for 60 hours a week in work, why would you wear one at the weekend? Let the women put the effort into dressing up, men can just wear a fitted tshirt and jeans and look good.
 

Hardy Daytona

Woodpecker
Gold Member
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced tailor that's located in the UK?
I've got a picture in my head of my perfect suit. Custom white 3-piece, single breasted with notched lapels and a fine chalk pinstripe.
 

Ray Carlton

Robin
Gold Member
zatara said:
3-piece suits always seem like someone's trying to hard, in my opinion. Especially if they're under 50.

In most places in my home country though anyone wearing a suit in a club is looked upon as a new money try hard type. The kind of guy who drives a leased BMW but lives in a studio apartment. Think Jersey Shore people I guess, in American culture. If you're in a bar on a Saturday night you're there to relax - suits are what people with good jobs wear for 60 hours a week in work, why would you wear one at the weekend? Let the women put the effort into dressing up, men can just wear a fitted tshirt and jeans and look good.

You approach this with the wrong mindset.

I enjoy wearing a suit, I don't do it for others, I don't do it for dressing up. I do it, because in my book, a suit is what a man should wear.

My grandfather wore a suit on most occasions and so did my father. Not because they wear the most style-conscious, but because in their book, a suit was what a man should wear.

Of course, with this opinion, I am part of a minority nowadays.

In the office world, you can spot the guys who wear a suit because they have to. They don't enjoy it. The suit is produced by cheap material, the armholes too big, the ties doesn't match the shirt, there is no pocket square, there is a neck gap. They wear it, because they have to, they don't embrace it.

You can see similar guys in clubs or bars. They read somewhere that they can get girls when they wear a suit. So they go the same route as the office guy. Get the first best suit without understanding the basics of men style. They don't care about the suit, they just wear it, because they "have to".

At the other hand, you have guys who embrace the suit. They understand men style, the tradition of men clothing and wear it with confidence. They appreciate the craftsmanship of a well-made suit and know how to match suit - shirt - tie - pocket square. But the important point is, after they put together their outfit, they forget it.

They wear it like other guys wear a t-shirt, jeans and sneakers.

All that makes the difference, whether you are a try hard, or a well dressed man.

Regarding the topic of 2 piece or 3 piece: If you can get the 3 piece for the same price as the 2 piece, I would say go for it. In a more formal setting, think a friends wedding, you can wear it as a 3 piece.

When you are a younger guy and just get started in your career, I wouldn't wear it to the office. You want to look sharp, so go the MTM route, but you don't want that your outfit distracts from you. At the other hand, when you are well established at the company, you can wear it as 3-piece as well.

But please note, the waistcoat is not an excuse for taking off the jacket. The jacket is an essential part of every suit and should be worn at all times.

Ray
 

zatara

Kingfisher
I do agree with that partially - proper suits are an extremely worthwhile investment. Every man should own a few tailored suits, otherwise they're still just a boy.

The prevailing culture in a lot of European countries though does tend to be 'if you've got a good job you wear nice suits to work, not on a Saturday night to a bar. If you've got a working class job wearing a suit is a special occasion for you, so you wear a suit at weekends to try to impress people'. Think lawyer vs mechanic. I think a lot of Americans fail to grasp that when they 'suit up' over here.
 

void

Pelican
zatara said:
I do agree with that partially - proper suits are an extremely worthwhile investment. Every man should own a few tailored suits, otherwise they're still just a boy.

The prevailing culture in a lot of European countries though does tend to be 'if you've got a good job you wear nice suits to work, not on a Saturday night to a bar. If you've got a working class job wearing a suit is a special occasion for you, so you wear a suit at weekends to try to impress people'. Think lawyer vs mechanic. I think a lot of Americans fail to grasp that when they 'suit up' over here.
THIS.
Also you can tell they dress up like this just for going out. You wouldn't meet them shopping/in the grocery store like this. For females dressing up is natural, for men it is not congruent. At least that is the way that I see it
 

MrXY

Hummingbird
Gold Member
All I know for sure, or care about, is that when I'm well dressed at a bar or nightclub, wearing a sportcoat or suit, I get more looks from women, they are more open to my approaches and they approach me far more often.

It works; if somebody in the place wants to think I'm a "tryhard" because I'm better dressed than them that's not my concern.
 

Easy_C

Peacock
Suit's a little bit much for bars and clubs. I've had better results with sportcoats.

Also I second not wearing a 3-piece suit. I've never seen anyone in a 3 piece at a professional setting, ranging from local events to NYC conferences with some household name business leaders in attendance.
 

Carlos100

Kingfisher
Gold Member
Which suit do you think presents a sharper look or frames the face better?
 

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Comte De St. Germain

Crow
Gold Member
Carlos100 said:
Which suit do you think presents a sharper look or frames the face better?

Don Draper honestly but it's Don Draper so I have my biases. Also I disagree with coat and vest matching unless it's black for certain occasions. In terms of in general use the three piece is only better for certain big events or private parties. It's too much to wear a three piece out to a club and it would be a very dependent bar.
 
I'm in zhuhai china, got a hotel in the city for the night. Got some light thin khakis on due I weather, navy with light blue accent polo untucked with Steve Madden dress sneakers.
Thought I was looking decently sharp for the night. Chinese guys comes out with two piece black suit, black shoes and a red bow tie.

Made me look like I'm going out for a round of golf.

This really stuck it home for me. Overdressed for bar/club or not that guy looks sharp and is getting attention. Def gonna put some input in this thread when I get back and hit the tailor. Not having that happen again lol.
 

Frontenac

Kingfisher
I agree that a three-piece is over-dressing in certain situations, but in the right one, like where everyone else is in a suit, it could be a way of separating yourself from the rest. For example, in job interviews, weddings, etc.

I recommend having one of each.
 
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