Props to Tanner at Masculine Style

[WanderingSoul]

I've been seeing a lot of companies use belts and suits together for their marketing photos. I like how it looks with a belt that stands out a bit, but also read that it's seen as a sign of a poor fitting suit.

Thoughts?

 

[Beyond Borders]

I'm no style aficionado, but to me a belt is like just about any accessory these days. A great way to add some character to your get-up.

 

[DaveR]

Thoughts?

It depends on where you are. If you're in a place which has a strong tradition of tailoring (eg. London, Hong Kong, Milan, Napoli) then ditching the belt will improve your appeal, especially amongst style-conscious women.

In other places they'll probably not get it, or maybe just think you forgot your belt. In that case you might be better off with the belt as it adds a bit of bling (as you pointed out).

 

[Kieran]

Nice outfit, especially if that was your first tailored suit. It looks much better than my first (and second and third) attempts!

The only thing I can see that needs work is the bulging around the chest (pic attached to show an extreme example). It could be caused by the waist being nipped too much (sounds unlikely, since I'm sure you were sent to a good tailor). Alternatively, it could be that your shoulders are wider than usual but your neck is average (common with guys who work out a lot). If it's the second, you'll probably have to go custom to get it 100% right. A good tailor may be able to widen the shoulders of an off-the-rack suit, but by the time you cover that cost, a custom suit will probably be better value.

Is it the shoulders that causes this? I always thought that maybe it is having muscle mass in the chest, but then I guess that wouldn't cause the jacket to come away from the shirt collar like that. I tend to find that most ready to wear blazers from high end labels do this, even if I size up. I'm fine if I stand with poor posture, but with correct, shoulders back, posture this tends to happen.

 

[DaveR]

Is it the shoulders that causes this? I always thought that maybe it is having muscle mass in the chest, but then I guess that wouldn't cause the jacket to come away from the shirt collar like that. I tend to find that most ready to wear blazers from high end labels do this, even if I size up. I'm fine if I stand with poor posture, but with correct, shoulders back, posture this tends to happen.

Yeah, if the jacket is loose enough around the waist, then it's probably the shoulders. Tailors can cut a jacket for upright, normal or slouching posture, which will correct that issue for you.

So if you're wearing a jacket cut for normal posture but your posture is upright, the back of your shoulders will push the arm holes back. That in turn make the front of the jacket spread out.

Wider than average shoulders in a RTW jacket that fits in other areas will cause the same problem.

 

[Parlay44]

Looking sharp bro :thumbup:

I have a stupid question here. Please try to humor me. How do you find the line between stylish/masculine and stylish in the closet gay dude I noticed when I wear flashier colors like a dark purple I tend to get more attention. I don't think I put out the :gay: vibe but I have had my sexuality questioned before when I dress up. Maybe I'm overdressing? I don't think I am though.

 

[Kieran]

Is it the shoulders that causes this? I always thought that maybe it is having muscle mass in the chest, but then I guess that wouldn't cause the jacket to come away from the shirt collar like that. I tend to find that most ready to wear blazers from high end labels do this, even if I size up. I'm fine if I stand with poor posture, but with correct, shoulders back, posture this tends to happen.

Yeah, if the jacket is loose enough around the waist, then it's probably the shoulders. Tailors can cut a jacket for upright, normal or slouching posture, which will correct that issue for you.

So if you're wearing a jacket cut for normal posture but your posture is upright, the back of your shoulders will push the arm holes back. That in turn make the front of the jacket spread out.

Wider than average shoulders in a RTW jacket that fits in other areas will cause the same problem.

Makes sense, guess it's my posture because most seem to fit my shoulders well. Can't be rounding my shoulders just to fit in jackets though, so I guess having them made is my only option.

 

[samsamsam]

DVY and MrXY, thanks for the feedback. I'm still learning as I go here; advice is always welcomed.

@samsamsam, the jacket is snug enough where I would prefer to take it off for a meal. And no braces nor a belt as the pants were fitted to me. This was a new one for me as well, but Tanner gave me the go ahead to ditch the belt...and I also read this on GSElevator:

"Did you forget your belt?"
"No, my pants fit. Did you forget to see your tailor?"

Interesting, if I remember right, I read somewhere that the belt helps to break up the look a bit so it doesn't look like a giant sheet of fabric.

I know some pants have these weird tabs that allow you to fit it nicely without a belt. I posted an article below. We are just sharing info, as long as you are happy you can tell me to piss off (just be polite about it!)

http://www.gq.com/style/style-guy/jeans-and-pants/200010/without-belt-braces

Pants without a belt

Question: My brother-in-law is always wearing pants without a belt or braces. I tell him he needs one or the other. He claims that because the trousers have a button-over tab, no belt or braces are needed. Who’s right?

Reply: I think it looks a little sloppy to wear trousers with belt loops without a belt or braces. I almost did it this morning, but my conscience pulled me back to the closet before I left the house. Wearing braces and a belt makes you look like a terrible pessimist; i.e., dork. But if you don’t like belts, there is an option. The classic Savile Row suit features adjustable side tabs, little belts made of the same fabric as the trousers, on either side of the waistband. They eliminate the need for a belt, and they look better with braces than trousers with belt loops do.

Usually, these tabs are found only on bespoke clothing, but they can also be had on made-to-measure clothing from certain manufacturers, including Oxxford, Brioni and Battistoni. Some better men’s stores, such as Barneys New York or Bergdorf Goodman, will create them for you on other brands if you request it. Bergdorf Goodman has them on its own custom line. Incotex offers such slacks without suits in Super 150s wool (212-691-5100); they’re pricey, but you’ll save money on belts and braces.