In season 1, once you get out of the Neutral Zone, it gets better quickly.
Season 2 rapidly gets better from there.
I like it because it's what SF is supposed to be: an exploration of ideas. Despite its flaws (and yes, the love triangle was annoying - in Season 2 they're all separated completely, solving that problem), each episode has something that makes you think: about what-ifs, what-does-that-means, how-does-that-fits, and what-does-that-say-about-Xs. Plus, knowing a bit about that era, there's an anticipation factor in seeing just what tweaked real historical detail they'll drop in next (the Saturn V toy advertisement on the comic book, for example, or LSD, or Atlantropa). If you watch closely, the attention to detail is sometimes incredible.
Plus, unlike the recent Trek and Star Wars offerings, it actually assumes the audience is intelligent enough to understand and get those references, allusions, inclusions, and ideas. And unlike nearly all mainstream SF nowadays, it actually has the courage to present who you would expect be the villain in a sympathetic light - so much so that his arc is by far the most interesting one in the show. In the current SJW/PC climate, that fact astonishes me.